You wouldn’t know it from the outside, but this tiny, hand-built, barn-like structure off a desolate stretch of highway in one of Houston’s far-west suburbs produces some of the most exacting and creative barbecue in all of Texas. Every aspect of this joint, from the horse statue at the entrance to the custom-made picnic tables, is a reflection of Malekian’s never-ending curiosity and perfectionism.
Like most contemporary craft barbecue joints, the exemplary smoked meats are accompanied by outstanding side dishes like mac-n-cheese and barbecue beans. And perhaps the greatest accompaniment is Malekian himself, clad in all-black and well-worn cowboy hat, visiting with guests and turning one-time visitors into life-long customers.
Photo by Robert J. Lerma.
